Best ways to photograph swimming

[Robert_Smith]

Doug wrote in the Event section that he was going to photograph a swimming event and sell onsite. I have photographed swimming but for a magazine so I could pick one swimmer and get the shot I needed, but how do you photograph swimming for onsite sales. You have a minimum of 6 lanes, and not all swimmers will be in a position to be photographed from where you are standing,if its children you are photographing (If you have the signed agreement) god help you when a parent looks for their "Little darling" on your viewing stations and cannot find her/him

Rob

[DougAxford]

Our plan was to list images under heats, so you have a more limited number of kids per heat.

We also plan on requesting pre-ordering (discussed on other threads). Parents pays a refundable $25. (more or less) and we concentrate on getting as many good images as possible of that swimmer, then add others as time allows. If I miss someone, that's tough, they should have pre-ordered.

I was at the pool a few days ago and checked to make sure that I am allowed full access to the entire pool area & took some samples. I'm going back Sat. for more samples and to get feedback on ones shot already. Exposures for our pool were similar to hockey/skating. We're getting a little too much motion at 1/250, so I may up it to 1/400 range and still be OK. I want some motion for sure. With the 70-200 2.8 lens I didn't think there would be any problem getting photos of even the far lane on an olympic pool. Problems actually in closest lane. As long as I can move freely, I should be OK. Biggest problem will be editing out the shots that are bad. I've never shot swimming, it's far different from other sports. All you see on the blocks are their back, upside down - in the water it's more an image of sucking air than anything - shots at end are great, if they win, not so good expression otherwise.

This comng meet is a 'short course' event, so it will be much tougher and I'll have to get shots as fast as the camera will allow. 900 kids, so I'll be working up a sweat but it sure beats freezing my *** in an arena.

Doug

[Terry Zorich]

Just curious about what kind of body you'll be using...

Obviously you'll need to be concerned about the amount of moisture in the air. I wouldn't recommend changing lenses in the pool area, and there's always danger of getting splashed.

If you have access to a new 1DM3, try using it at ISO 3200...surprisingly usable results that will open many doors for event photographers in indoor/low-light venues. Even 6400 is decent...

My 1DM3 has me thinking about trying some skating events again. I gave up a few years ago because the lighting always sucked and they didn't allow strobes.

[DougAxford]

My tests were done with a 40D @ 1600. I was thinking about upping the shutter but on closer inspection, I think I'll run into problems with lights that are pulsing. This definitely shows on some of the shots on the blocks, since they are directly under one light vs. more of a overall lighting in the center of the pool.

I'm not one to switch lenses so I'm not worried about water - except falling in

We're going to test this Sat. with the S5 and also do some at 3200 ISO.

The 1600 is unbelievably good. I am very impressed. We printed some 12x18s tonight. I couldn't tell.

Doug

[Marc]

you get them coming out of a stroke, just as they break water or take there head out to breathe, off the block is good also.

swimming is not hard, but timing is crucial and you need to isolate.

[Claude_Ferron]

Originally Posted by Marc

but timing is crucial and you need to isolate.

I Agree with Marc, timing is everything... don't shoot like crazy, follow the rhythm. Taking the dive when you are inside is a waste of time.
Free: Take from the side only
Back: At the end of the pool just after the swimmer flip (take 4-5 shots)
Fly: Front shots = VERY hard because of the tight margin you have. It is easier from the side or with an angle.
Breast: Face, but side are more dynamic.

Go with request only, if you can separate boys from girls it is easier for them.

You can also take referee pictures, and tell the organizer... they usually buy once.

Hope this helps.

[DougAxford]

These are 2 we shot Sat. We were working with both S5 & 40D. Big difference, but you can make due with the Fuji in a pinch. Canon had 70-200 2.8, Fuji was Tamron 28-200 2.8. I thought the Canon at 3200 ISO was really decent quality. Both these are 3200, 1/320 @f:4. Even with a manual WB, we still needed to pop a bit of red into everything. AWB on Fuji was closer than Canon on manual.

Doug