| Re: Shooting cars at night - help! How close to the action do you anticipate being allowed to be ? I shoot motorsports as well, mostly Sprint Cars, Midgets and Micro Sprints. 95% of our races are at night under very dusty conditions. Picture a brown snowstorm with 800 HP Sprint Cars flying past you within twenty feet at 120 MPH and you get a pretty good idea of what we go through.
You didn't mention how fast the glass is you have but with a 200-300 mm focal length you better have some serious power behind your flash to make a difference if the lens isn't at least an F2.8. I have two D100s with a SB80DX, SB800 and a big Sunpak 622 with zoom head. If I'm shooting my F2.8 200mm lens at night, the sunpak does very well. The SB800 does well also but I've only shot that combination (SB800/F 2.8 200mm) indoors at winter time Micro Sprint races held on closed hockey arenas.
If you're looking to shoot a 200-300 lens at, say F 3.5 or greater, then you really need to look into something bigger than a SB28DX unless you plan on shooting at 1600 ISO. I wouldn't recommend that because of the noise at that level. Especially with night photos of cars at speed. White Balance so easy, even our 5 year old can do it.- Melissa Strickland |