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Old 05-13-2008, 09:22 AM
Ronald Garrett Ronald Garrett is offline
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Framing, mounting, etc.

I live and work 100 miles from the nearest wholesale frame and art supply. I live twenty miles from the nearest retail framer. As such I have had to be a "do it yourself type of guy".

I am pretty satisfied with my framing and mounting work up to 8.5 X 11". Most 11 X 14 prints show minimal waviness. But all the 16 X 20 and 17 X 22 glossys show various amounts of waviness after being framed for awhile. I use Epson ultra premium glossy paper most of the time. I print the larger images on a Epson 3800, or 2400. I know I need to do something different than what I am currently doing. I use the hinge, {from top} method now.

What is the easiest and most cost effective way to obtain a flat image on the bigger mounts? Outsourced work seems to be expensive, but may be the best in the long run? My volume is relatively low, four or five images a week to be framed.

I entertained the thought of buying a press, and talked to a regular here about purchasing one, but wondered how long it would be before I could expect any return on investment? I researched the pressure sensitive method, but didn't find enough information to convince myself I could make an informed decision?

Taking and printing the images is the most economical part of getting an image on the wall it seems. I have begun making a very limited amount of my own frames, and have what I think are some unique ideas about framing, but the print has to be flat.

Open to all suggest6ions. I'll know a good idea when I steal it.

  


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Old 05-13-2008, 02:24 PM
DougAxford DougAxford is offline
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Re: Framing, mounting, etc.

I've offered framing services since day one - over 35 years. Dry mounting is the best and cheapest way to go and you need to be on the look out for a used Seal press. I think there was one on this forum just a week or so ago.

Dry mount is fast and fairly easy once you learn how to do it right. Mounting glossies is a bit trickier so that you retain high gloss and no bumps from crud that gets stuck in between. I opted for a 'hard bed' press that allows me to use heat laminates. It was well worth the investment. We put a non-glare Heatseal made by Drytac on virtually every wall portrait. It's almost invisible and totally replaces glass.

Pressure sensitive products are OK, but touchier to use. There also are some that can be repositioned if you screwup.

Larson Juhl are the biggest frame supplier. I don't know what minimum they require to set up an account but if you have a full-time studio, it would be well worth it to ask. Larson-Juhl

Doug

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Old 05-13-2008, 05:12 PM
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Dennis_Vied Dennis_Vied is offline
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Re: Framing, mounting, etc.

I've been having the same sort of concerns with my framed output. I buy my framing supplies from framingsupplies.com, and assemble my own frames, glaze with acrylic, and cut my own mats. I've only been at it for three years, so have plenty to learn. I also use the "top hinge" method, and print on Epson Premium Glossy on a R2400.

Question, Doug. Does the dry mount process use only pressure, or is there some adhesive used? I assume you have to either precisely position the print, or anchor the mat to the mounted print some way for positioning.

I haven't looked into presses yet, but, it's time, it's time.
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Old 05-13-2008, 05:59 PM
DougAxford DougAxford is offline
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Re: Framing, mounting, etc.

Dry mount tissue bonds with heat and minimum pressure, just enough to keep the surfaces in close contact while bonding. You can actually do it with an iron, but that is not easy.

The mount tissue feels like wax paper and you tack (with a tacking iron) a small X in the centre of the print to bond the tissue to the photo, position is exactly where you want it and then tack two corners of the print to the mount board. The tacks are just enough to keep it from coming apart, no pressure or big tacks, keep them small and light. If you've got an oversize piece, you actually start by pressing one section under one tack and while it's being pressed, you lift the exposed tack to release it. Otherwise, sometimes you'll get a pressure fault (wrinkle) if the board or photo were slightly off in tacking.

Dry mount takes about 1 minute per press and you need to make sure that it cools slightly (10 sec) before you flex the piece to make sure it solidly glued. If you flex while still too hot, the glue may release, remember, it's heat sensitive. You can put a board back in the press and pull it off, but that is very difficult to do and have it reusable.

You need to have a release paper on top of your photo while pressing to protect it and if you're doing glossy photos, the trick is to pre-press for 10 seconds without tissue, to remove moisture from the print. Moisture will show as matte blotches on the glossy print and then you have to spray - not good at all. That's why I mount & laminate together. No need for glass and the finish is perfect - just not glossy.

You can do a cold laminate but I have never seen one that is nearly as good as a hot laminate. They look like there is plastic on top of the print. With a good heatseal, it looks like a lustre finish paper.

Doug

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Old 05-13-2008, 08:24 PM
Ronald Garrett Ronald Garrett is offline
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Re: Framing, mounting, etc.

What is your estimated cost per image?

Can images already wavy be saved?

Would am image that has been in conditioned air room still need the 10 second pre press?

Voltage press operates at? Size circuit?

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Old 05-13-2008, 09:28 PM
DougAxford DougAxford is offline
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Re: Framing, mounting, etc.

I pay $189. for a 40.5" x 150' roll of trimount. There are many other flavors for many purposes.

Yes, most wavy images can be flattened perfectly, just need to be careful

I would always pre-press any glossy photo.

My press runs on 120 v., no idea of amps off hand. There are lots of Seal Dry Mount Presses on Ebay between $500 - 1,000. My model is new over 5K now - ouch.

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Old 05-14-2008, 05:44 PM
Ronald Garrett Ronald Garrett is offline
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Re: Framing, mounting, etc.

For the near future, I am going to see if I can get any kind of discount from the nearest frame shop, {if their efforts are acceptable}. Even though Doug has furnished lots of info, I just don't feel comfortable that I have enough of a grasp of the big picture of mounting images. I did a search again and found a few articles, but none of them was what I was looking for.

I will continue to try and enlighten myself. If someone finds information giving detailed pros and cons of the different methods please share.

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