I use the !D MkII, with a D60 as backup. My wife wanted an upgrade from her Oly 2100, which has image stabilization, a 35-350mm equivalent lens, and produces beatiful shots for her, despite the 2 megapixel limitation. She upgraded to the Panasonic FZ20 (she refuses to consider the weight of a DSLR and long lenses.) Of course, I had to try the camera out first [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
The FZ20 is smaller and lighter than her Oly 2100, has 5MP, a 35-420mm equivalent focal lenght *at a constant f/2.8*, a very nice manual focus ring, with reasonably fast AF, good burst mode with a big enough buffer so that after a 3-frame burst it is only a second or so until you can get another burst. Coming from the 1D II I found the shutter lag (from the focus lock position to full press) much less annoying than I had anticipated.
AF choices include 9 area, 3 area and 1 area center area) focusing, where it appears that more than one AF sensor is used, and "spot" focusing using a single center AF spot. You can also link the metering to the active AF point. Exposure choices are full frame, center weighted and spot (I don't know the size of the spot.)
I found the focusing to be accurate except in rather low light. Exposure is accurate in all modes, with exposure compensation (and flash exposure compensation) available. Color is excellent, contrast is very good, and I was surprised by the lack of CA through the zoom range, and lack of noticeable distortion even at the 420mm setting. There is some barrel distortion at the wide end but not noticeable in most shots. I set the sharpening and contrast to Low, and resolution to highest. Tiff files take too long for my patience, but are surprisingly fast anyway. I used Jpeg Fine, and found few artifacts at 100% in PSCS.
In addition, with a 3rd party adapter, the Olympus B300 1.7 converter (or its replacement) extends the equivalent focal length beyond 700mm with better results than could be anticipated. (We have a B300 from my Coolpix days.) There are several .8X and fisheye converters that others have used with this camera, and the posted images are quite good.
Using Bicubic Smoother, Focus Magic and PKSharpen's Output sharpening, I am able to get very nice 13x18 or so prints using Qimage. (Not as good as the 1d II prints, but very, very nice.).
ISO 80 & 100 aare pretty clean, ISO 200 gives some noise but very acceptable if you don't have to drag too much detail out of underexposed shadows, and ISO 400 shows more noise. If you use Low sharpening, Noise Ninja can do a nice job of de-noising a well-exposed image at ISO 400.
There is a small but effective *live* histogram that responds to changes in exposure settings. My wife has learned to produce the best exposures with ease...Too bad there is no way to implement a live histogram with optical viewfinder DSLR's
My wife better keep an eye on this little camera...
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