Canadian Passport Photos

[Curtis Cunningham]

Without having proper studio lights yet, until I get them, how do you recommend getting acceptable passport images using only the following equipment (apart from my 5D):

1. Speedlite 580EXII (handheld off camera with OC-E3 cord)
2. Speedlite 420 EX (used as a slave mounted on a tripod)
3. a reflector to bounce light up into the face

In the tests I've done, it's a bit tricky holding my 5D with one hand and the 580 in the other (I really need another tripod for the 580), but until I can get more equipment it's the best I can do. I'm shooting a monochrome image against an off-white wall.

Based on the info I've provided what kind of setups should I try?

[Dennis_Vied]

You've got all you need. I've done that in a similar fashion handholding, but instead of another tripod, consider getting a light stand for the 580. They come in various sizes. I have a backlight stand which is very small and light, then the next size extends to about 6 feet, then I have two that go up ten feet. I'm sure they're cheaper than another tripod.

But you've basically got all you need.

[Curtis Cunningham]

Originally Posted by Dennis_Vied

but instead of another tripod, consider getting a light stand for the 580...I have a backlight stand which is very small and light...But you've basically got all you need.

Pardon my ignorance, but how is the light stand different from a tripod?

Setup-wise, I've tried aiming the flash heads right at my subjects (in this case my wife or son) who are sitting on a stool 3 or 4 feet from the wall. But even though the flash heads are elevated and at a bit of an angle (i.e off center) to the subject, I still have problems with visible shadows on the wall. Is this because the subjects are still too close to the wall?

I've also tried bouncing the flash off the ceiling, but while this seems to eliminate most of the shadows, it still doesn't seem to provide enough overall light on the face.

So do I buy diffusers that fit over the heads of my flashes and aim them directly at the face?

The reason I have the subjects sit is so that they can be below the level of the flash head...my hope was that this would help push the shadows down and below rather than directly behind the subject's head.

The other challenge I have is that the 1-hour labs here in town don't seem to take much care in printing colour-accurate images. I know for a fact that the same test images I took to the 1-hour lab yesterday, if I were to send them to the pro-lab I work with, they'd come back so much nicer from the pro-lab. So it seems to me that I might have to overcompensate the lighting before I send any prints to the lab here in town.

I'd love to be able to send every passport print off to get professionally printed, but that would just add too much cost (and processing/delivery time). Other pros up here in the past have charged $20-$25 for 2 passport photos. If I sent them away, I'd have to charge my $11 shipping on top of that. This way I don't think I'd get any business...

[Dennis_Vied]

Originally Posted by Curtis Cunningham

Pardon my ignorance, but how is the light stand different from a tripod?

..............

If I sent them away, I'd have to charge my $11 shipping on top of that. This way I don't think I'd get any business...

Point taken. The main difference is cost. (I'm making an assumption that you're talking about a serious tripod, which may be an erroneous assumption. If you have an old cheap light tripod lying around, it could function as well).

The last time I shot passport photos, I printed them myself, and they were very satisfactory. I'm just guessing here, but I'm thinking passport photos are the least demanding photos a pro photog could be expected to deliver, and most quality late generation ink jets can do a very passable job of it.

I would consider printing them myself.

I would suggest either a ceiling bounce as the main flash, or a high main flash into an umbrella, and a fill flash or reflector on the opposite side a little lower. Sounds like you're pretty close to getting it right. Perhaps moving them out from the wall will throw the shadow down lower so it won't show on the final shot.

[DougAxford]

Attach a reflector (even stiff paper will do) to the flash with elastic band. Aim the flash at the ceiling and have the paper sticking up at the back so that the reflection off the paper is aimed at their face. Should be perfect. There's a site somewhere that shows how to do this with white card stock but I can't remember where. Maybe someone here will know. I think he had it on facebook but I can't find it.

Make sure that you see the gov't web site for exact specs on passport photos. They are very sticky now.

[Curtis Cunningham]

Originally Posted by DougAxford

Attach a reflector (even stiff paper will do) to the flash with elastic band. Aim the flash at the ceiling and have the paper sticking up at the back so that the reflection off the paper is aimed at their face.

Make sure that you see the gov't web site for exact specs on passport photos. They are very sticky now.

Thanks Doug. I had thought of a reflector like my Lumiquest Pocket Bouncer, but I'll try the paper idea as well (since I only have one reflector).

I like Dennis' idea of printing myself but the thing that confuses me is the exact type of paper I should use.

1. Pharmasave here in town tells me I should use glossy paper.
2. Passport Canada's website says, "the photos must be printed on plain, high quality photographic paper. Heavy weight paper is unacceptable."
3. Another Canadian Travel website says, "Use matte-finish photographic paper."

I'm thinking I should just phone Passport Canada on Monday and get clarification.

[MikeA]

I've done a few (Australian) for family and friends, and the only negative feedback I have ever had is when one applicants photo only showed one of his ears. The passport officer claimed that the subject must be looking straight at the camera, and if he had, both ears would be visible. It could be clearly seen from the photo that the ear was not visible because it was hidden by hair. Must have been a bad day.

I retook the shot and parted his hair so that both ears could be seen (same angle, straight-on) and the photo was accepted. blah.

Gear was filtered daylight, STE2, a 420EX with omnibounce bounced off the ceiling from a tripod on one side. Mostly, it threw a bit of general illumination and cancelled shadows. Subject was around 4 feet from the off-white rear wall. Printed them all on Ilford Smooth Pearl paper.

Mike