Architechtural photography and levelling

[Terry_Uy]

Hi there, I do a lot of interior photography and the one thing that always frustrates me is levelling the camera. The Manfrotto tripod I use has a built in leveler and I also have a slide-in hotshoe leveler. Each and every single time when I align one, the other is off.

I've been forced to eyeball many a composition but once and for all I'd like to know if there's a classic/traditional method for levelling the camera, hot shoe or tripod and also the rotation of the camera head settings, does having it midly pointing the left or the right ( by mildly I mean less than 1 degree off ) greatly affect visible distortion? sorry I'm pretty much self taught these past couple of years so I may be lacking a few basic lessons, any comments are appreciated.

[John_Luke]

I use the Manfrotto 410 -three way head with an Arca Style plate. The hot shoe bubble levels are worthless. First, I set the level by laying a small digital level on the Arca plate. Then I mount the camera, and set the plumb by laying the same level in an up and down fashion across the front of the lens housing.

Cavaet- even a perfectly level and plumb camera is no guarantee of success. Floors are rarely level, walls never perfectly plumb.

[Eliot_Z_Cohen]

There's also that the hotshoe-type spirit levels may not be 100% level, even when the camera is because the hotshoe itself has little leaf springs to give extra friction to flash units etc. So, next time you're out and about using both, check whether this is throwing in an inaccuracy.

[Terry_Uy]

[ QUOTE ]
I use the Manfrotto 410 -three way head with an Arca Style plate.

If that's the junior geared head, great I've got the same head and plate then.

The hot shoe bubble levels are worthless. First, I set the level by laying a small digital level on the Arca plate.

ok, what is a digital level? I've never heard of anything like that, is it a construction thing?

Then I mount the camera, and set the plumb by laying the same level in an up and down fashion across the front of the lens housing.

What is plumb, is it the clockwide-counterclockwise motion for the camera? And when you say front of the lens you mean you situate the level inside the lens hood?

Cavaet- even a perfectly level and plumb camera is no guarantee of success. Floors are rarely level, walls never perfectly plumb.

[/ QUOTE ]

Your right, that's really annoying. Thanks for your help so far. <font color="red"> </font> <font color="red"> </font> <font color="red"> </font>

[Terry_Uy]

elliot, I never knew that, what method do you normally use, do you eyeball the scene or use an external level?

[Eliot_Z_Cohen]

I use the 2-way linear spirit levels on my Manfrotto 029 tripod head (not sure what Bogen number that is). I find it easier to level than the bubble-type ones. I use a Manfrotto L-plate (often used with the QTVR heads) , and before shooting, calibrate it for vertical use with a Hama 2 way hotshoe level
Before using the head, I calibrated my levels using a builder's level (one of those ones which are supposed to be accurate to 2cm in a kilometre, or something like that). The levels can be finely adjusted using a hex key in the grub screws. I then plugged the grub screw holes with blu-tak to avoid any unwanted fiddling. I check the accuracy randomly to make sure it's still in, as my tripod can take a beating.
When I calibrated, I made sure to do it on a concrete floor, to avoid unwanted vibrations.

I find that most problems are indeed caused by out-of-plumb walls etc, or just by encroaching barrel distortion.

[Terry_Uy]

Thanks elliot, much appreciated [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]